![]() The second is to have a direct pathway from the case of the equipment in the event of a fault, this prevents it from "holding" 120V potential and allows current to flow easily to open the breaker. 1 being to keep operating currents (white wires) insulated so the currents do not take an alternate pathway, they do not go down grounds or on any other metal cases or pathways. The subs being fed 4 wire are connected via the ground wire which leaves the neutral bars in them insulated, the goal here is 2 fold. Everything all hooked together at this one point. ![]() There needs to be an unbroken wire from the case of any equipment or panel back to the neutral at main service entrance and the entrance equipment (box) needs to be bonded to this. Here is something to help think his thru. Will be glad to answer any questions to the best of my knowledge concerning voltage checks, tests etc.īut honestly, i'm starting to get stumped with this problem.Not all of them know. ![]() Either underground original service wires, or inside house somewhere is my outlook on this.Īny clues appreciated and will observe absolute safety procedures checking any procedures suggested. For that 20 feet new 4/0 200amp service wire run in conduit to service panel, so i don't think that is where a fault could be due to weather/nicks, etc. Service to home connected in weatherproof box and run additional 20 feet to back of home where service panel is installed. 30 feet from home with line coming in underground. More details: 200amp service panel in an older mobile home, setup 3 years ago. I want to eliminate as much as i can to save on chasing something not causing the problem. I realize i will have to call an electrician to come in, but don't want to start digging up the yard to replace the service wires coming in if the problem is actually inside with the water heater, or the service panel. I can't eliminate the water heater as bad since i'm not getting full voltage on both phases according to my testing, and the power company's test of their service. My first question: why am i seeing 125v everywhere when the water heater breaker is turned on, but lose 125v at the main phase wire coming in when i turn the water heater is off.īoth elements of water heater have checked for continuity (13 ohms) have 125v/135v on the thermostat posts, and at the wires coming into it, but not 220 across the wires/thermostat. But can't get 220v across either water heater or dryer breakers. When I turn the breaker for the water heater back on I get 135v on all breakers (120v and both sides of water heater and dryer). Two of the lights/receptacle 120v breakers also drop to 26v. Same on the dryer breaker, 135v on one side and 26v on the other. I get 135v on one side of breaker, 26v on the other. But switching the wire for the lights to another free breaker cleared that up and I get 125v steady on that phase _unless_ I turn off the breaker to the water heater, then it drops to 26v on that phase. I had found that when the dimming cycle was occurring one phase of my service panel was dropped to 80v, then back to 125v, so thought it was a power company problem. Called the power company and they came and checked the voltage at meter and said it was fine, problem was in the buried cable to my home. But i still don't have 220 for water heater and dryer. In checking breakers I found one for the lights that were dimming sparking and moved the wire to another free 20amp and that solved the problem with the dimming. Also,several 20amp breakers drop to the same 80v during dimming cycle. at both breaker and appliance (thermostat or poles of dryer receptacle). But when the cycling (dimming) occurs one side drops to 80v. Same at thermostats of water heater and poles of dryer receptacle. I find i have 125v and 135v on both sides of breaker for water heater and dryer, but not 220v across either sides. So, spent a few days checking appliances (working or not) and made my way back to service panel. Trying to work the dryer makes lights dim. Appears the lights/receptacles were cycling back and forth dim to bright. Started looking about and finding receptacles not working, or barely working, and then working fine again. This problem came up last week and I found it coming home when noticed the motion detected light in drive was dim.
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